It was suggested that we get up early and look, as we passed through the Dardanelle Strait, a 38-mile link between the Aegean Sea and the Sea of Marmara. At first we were completely enveloped by mist; then lights from the ship created little illuminated caves in the mist. It was quite a disorienting sight at 6 a.m. When the mist cleared, we were silently cruising along. We barely rippled the Marmara, the whole way up to the Golden Horn. Magic.
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